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We have shown this tutorial in long form for you to read on the site and also have a free downloadable PDF version for you to keep for future reference. Please do not copy, sell or post this tutorial on your own website, but you may mention it and link back to it here if you wish.
Tutorial #2A: Stitching the Tabby Weave using 2 Needles
One of the members of Petit Pointers finished her rug off with a Tabby weave and mentioned that she uses 2 needles when doing hers. To me, this made sense as I often lose track of where I am when adding the Tabby weave in the traditional way as outlined in my previous tutorial, Tutorial# 2. I have called this one Tutorial #2A since it is an alternate to #2. Please refer to Tutorial #2 for working the fringe.
If you are like me, losing track of where you are in your Tabby Weave and ending up with long stitches, this tutorial may be the way you would like to do it from now on.
If you are like me, losing track of where you are in your Tabby Weave and ending up with long stitches, this tutorial may be the way you would like to do it from now on.
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Step 1:
Thread 2 needles with Ecru colored thread and weave under your stitching at the back of the rug. I start my Tabby weave on the left-hand side of my rugs because I am left-handed, but you may start on the right if it makes more sense to you. My instructions are written from the left. Thread 1 - Start by bringing your first needle up in the hole that is 2 threads away from the left side of your rug (1) and go down in the hole where the last stitch of your rug border ended (2). Bring that same thread up in the hole immediately to the right of that and down in the next hole to the right. Thread 2 – Working in the same row of holes, bring the thread up in the same hole that your first thread came up in, |
keeping it below thread 1. (1) Put your needle down into the very next hole to the right, keeping your thread below Thread 1 (2) and go down through that hole. Push up through the next hole to the right.
As you can see from the picture, the threads are traveling across the row in the same row that the last stitches of your rug went into. This will be a bit tight, but in the end, gives you a nice tight weave that looks correct.
As you can see from the picture, the threads are traveling across the row in the same row that the last stitches of your rug went into. This will be a bit tight, but in the end, gives you a nice tight weave that looks correct.
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Step 2: Begin working your way across the row, keeping Needle 1 on the top of the row and Needle 2 on the bottom of the row. I usually do about 3 or 4 stitches with needle 1, then catch up with needle 2 as shown here. |
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When working with either needle, hold the thread from the other needle away from the work so that you do not catch it. I usually place Needle 1 thread heading up and needle 2 thread heading down as shown in the photo so that I do not mix them up. Work your way in this fashion to the end of the row. |
At the end of the row, one needle will come up in the same hole as the last far-right stitch of your rug. Take that needle and put it down in the hole that is 2 threads away from the last stitch. The other needle will go down in the same hole as the last stitch of the rug. Put this one up through the next hole to the right and down in the one 2 threads away from the last stitch of the rug (the same hole Needle 1 ended in).
Step 3:
Move down to the next horizontal set of holes. Bring both needles up through the hole directly below the hole they both went down in the previous row. Choose one to be Needle 1 and begin working your way back across the row from right to left, first putting it down 2 holes to the left then alternating your way up and down each hole across a few stitches at a time.
Put needle 2 down in the hole immediately to the left of where it came up, making sure it is placed below the thread of needle 1. Work your way across the row, alternating up and down each hole catching up with needle 1. Always keep the stitches from needle 2 below the stitches from needle 1 but in the same row across.
Step 3:
Move down to the next horizontal set of holes. Bring both needles up through the hole directly below the hole they both went down in the previous row. Choose one to be Needle 1 and begin working your way back across the row from right to left, first putting it down 2 holes to the left then alternating your way up and down each hole across a few stitches at a time.
Put needle 2 down in the hole immediately to the left of where it came up, making sure it is placed below the thread of needle 1. Work your way across the row, alternating up and down each hole catching up with needle 1. Always keep the stitches from needle 2 below the stitches from needle 1 but in the same row across.
As you can see from the above picture, the stitches become a nice, close weave of alternating stitches and there are no extra-long stitches where I lost track of where I was in the process. I usually stitch 3 rows of Tabby weave (using both needles), and this photo shows me on the last row. It may take a little longer in the beginning until you master this method, but I feel it is worth it in the end.
Once done your last set of rows, continue with the placement of the Fringe as in Tutorial #2.
Once done your last set of rows, continue with the placement of the Fringe as in Tutorial #2.
| tutorial_2a_-_stitching_the_tabby_weave_using_2_needles.pdf |
This concludes our alternate Tabby Weave tutorial. We hope it was helpful to you and clarified our method for you. If you would like to move to the third tutorial, you may do so using this link.
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